Cork, by far Ireland’s largest county, has over 170km of astonishingly diversified coastline. This diversity includes pleasant resorts such as the port of Kinsale, with many reminders of Cork’s prosperous seafaring past, and the narrow Sheep’s Head peninsula, where visitors are free to ramble amongst gorse, granite and pasture. Further inland one can find many dairy farms, nestled amongst low mountains and evergreen plantations.
Locals only half-jokingly refer to the county as the ‘People’s Republic of Cork’.The former ‘Rebel City’, nowadays known simply as Cork city, has a famously independent spirit, in addition to a confidence which sees it as the equal of Dublin, both culturally and socially.
The punch packed in its arts and music scene has ensured that its cultural reputation is quickly becoming one to rival the capital’s. The city also sets a high culinary tone with its outstanding restaurants, cafés and specialist food market; a standard which is maintained by much of the county. Cork certainly knows its place in the world, giving it a vibrance and energy which is infectious.
Cork’s city centre is an island on the River Lee, packed with Georgian parades, 17th-century alleys and masterpieces such as the opera house. The city’s urban renewal began with the its stint in 2005 as European Capital of Culture. This renewal continues apace, with new buildings, bars and arts centres appearing all over town. The city remains happily traditional, however – with a genuinely proud welcome from the locals, snug pubs hosting live music sessions most of the week, and excellent local produce produced by a list of restaurants which is becoming longer all the time.
A good option for visitors to Cork is to stay in one of the Cork self catering apartments which can be found throughout the county.
The long and bruising history of Cork is inextricably linked with Ireland’s struggle for nationhood; a story which began in the 7th century, when St Finbarre founded a monastery on acorcach (marshy place). In following centuries this monastery expanded to become the chief city of the Kingdom of South Munster by the 12th century. By this time the settlement had survived raids and sporadic settlement by Norsemen. Irish rule had a short life span, however – by 1185 the English ruled Cork.
During the relentless struggle between Irish and Crown forces, it changed hands regularly. It survived Cromwellian assault only to fall to the Protestant William of Orange.Cork prospered during the 18th century, with beef, butter, whiskey and beer exported round the world from its port. However, a century later famine devastated both county and city. Cork was robbed of millions of its inhabitants by death or emigration.Cork city’s deep-seated Irishness ensured that it played a key role in Ireland’s struggle for independence. Mayor Thomas MacCurtain was killed by the Black and Tans in 1920, followed by Terence MacSwiney, his successor, who died in London’s Brixton prison after a hunger strike.
The British were at their cruellest in Cork – much of the centre was burned down, including St Patrick’s St, the City Hall and the Public Library. Ireland’s self-destructive Civil War of 1922–23 had a regional focus on Cork.
